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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.